R. M. WILLIAMS
Wool denim jeans
The skills behind a craftsman's product
Story: Don Tilmouth
Photos: Mandy Roberts
R.M. Williams, one of the first denim jeans manufacturers in Australia,
has added wool denim to its product line.
Just like regular jeans, the wool denims are both rugged for bush wear
and stylish and comfortable for casual wear.
With the 11 percent wool component next to the skin, they provide additional
warmth.
Here's the process used in making the RMW T789 AAAXB wool denim jeans..
1.
With layers of fabric rolled out on the cutting table, paper patterns
are stapled to the top layer.
Using the patterns Peter Brettig uses a purpose-made fabric "knife"
to cut up the "lay" of
the cloth.
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2.
After the care and instructions label and separate brand label are
sewn to the inside of the front panel, side seams on the leg and torso
are closed and the garment is turned over.
The thread has a strong polyester core, bound in cotton, for long
hard wear. |
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3.
The outside legs are secured by a twin needle, top stitching machine.
The inside leg seam is twin-needle stitched, after which the inner
and outer waist banding strips are combined and sewn.
During this procedure , the belt loops, made from a double thickness
of wool/denim, further strengthened by a core fusing, have one end
slipped under the lower edge of the band, to be stitched into place. |
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4.
The main stress point for the belt loops is at the top of the band.
With several quick stitching movements across the narrow span of the
loop, a "bartacking" machine secures it strongly.
The strain point below the fly opening is also bartacked for added
strength. |
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5.
After riveting the corners of the front pockets, the jeans are
laundered and the distinctive R.M. Williams leather "Longhorn" beltloop
patch is sewn on.
After the size sorting, creases and wrinkles are steamed out.
Every garment is thoroughly checked for unwanted thread ends and other
quality issues. |
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6.
Now ready for packaging, the special R/M. Williams' wool denim
back pocket plaster is slipped on and another pair is shipped. |
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Story from: Issue 2, December 1998-January 1999
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